I'll start off with an excellent bit of information about the late series 2 cars courtesy of my good friend David Langley. If you peruse lag Lovers or Bring a Trailer you'll recognize his name and erudite prose. I met David on the very first Oil leak (tour) back in 2011 when we celebrated the 50th anniversary of the E Type with a group of like minded friends from Jag Lovers. Over the years I have learned to trust his counsel on anything E Type, I have several other friends with who I correspond with on Jaguar matters and it's like the old E F Hutton ads, when they speak I listen!
(for bonus points who knows what E F Hutton was?)*
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| Copy of CJ's Heritage Certificate |
At any rate heres what David had to say:
"I'm really confused about this 1R vs 2R designation in the last Series 2 cars. If you look at xkedata, most (but not all) of the cars after nR28000 are 2Rs. However, there are occasional 1R cars (like Chuck's), and some of them clearly show 1Rxxxxx stamped on the picture frame, or even more convincing - on the Heritage Certificate. Some of these cars have the leapers on the sides of the bonnet and some don't. Some of them have the chrome trim around the bonnet "mouth" and some don't. It's very confusing. The JCNA Judging Guide is vague on the topic, but implies that either the leapers or the chrome trim should be accompanied by a 2R car#. I wondered if maybe cars for a particular market remained 1R cars, but I can't find anything to support that. There seems to be some correlation between the Title Date and the use of 1R (1970 title) and 2R (1971 title), but it's hard to see how the factory could have know which cars would be titled when, and the correlation isn't 100%. [UPDATE}: OK - I think I've found a source that says that only the MY1971cars destined for US and Canada got the 2R designation, and that only they got the leapers and chrome mouth trim. So, if this is true, Chuck's car must have originally been destined for somewhere other than US/Canada, and the leapers must have been a later addition - maybe a bonnet swap at some point, and the chrome removed. All these cars have a story to tell....
The data plate shown in the xkedata entry for 1R28432 looks like it may be non-original. It is one of the later type with only 4 fields for Car#, Engine#, Gearbox# and Body#. The Body# field on the plate is not stamped, though the xkedata entry includes a body number., and there are no rivets in the bottom 2 corners of the plate. The hole for the misisng rivet appears to be visible in the underlying bodywork. The plate contains the text "Recommended Lubricants" at the bottom which was not there on the originals (as there are no lubricants listed). It looks to me that this plate has been made by chopping the top off one of the earlier format plates. Hence the lack of bottom rivet holes etc...
And this sort of research is how I waste my day...:-)
-David"
In addition to the information he provided here he also gave me a link to his write on the repair he did on his turn signal switch several years back, sadly I wasn't able mimic his approach as Chucks had been pretty badly bodged and the nylon cancellation ring was long gone.
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| Removal of the steering wheel was the first order of business and the center trim ring is held in with 3 grub screws, once these are partially remover the leaper jumps out at you. Then there is a 15/16's locking nut and finally the 1" nut that hols it in place with a washer under it. Usually the steering wheel slides off the splines just make sure you remember it's position. |
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| The steering wheel is off and you can see the 'collets' (split ring) , inside of that there is a spring clip that has to be removed and then the big round locking nut can be unscrewed giving you clear access to the area you want to see. |
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| In this case the nylon cancellation ring was MIA and the turn signal switch is mounted to the column without it leaving the whole thing off center and too far forward. |
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| The previous bodger used the 'control striker' to trigger the turn signal switch mechanism which fortunately was in pretty good shape. |
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| So my bodge was to make a shim to center the switch mechanism on the column and then use a zip tie to trigger the turn signal cacellators (is that even a word?) and once I was sure it was in proper position used a little super glue on the strap to keep it from moving. |
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| Here's the finished project, I took 'CJ" for a short test drive to make sure it worked and that the new temp gauge worked-success! Had to tighten the fitting on the water temp bulb but no leaks now. |
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| Not perfect but much better than it was and it works! A new turn signal switch might be in CJ's future but for now it should work for some time. |
Well that's it for today, many thanks to David, Drew, and Erica for their assistance and thoughts!
Cheers,
Lynn
3 hrs
* EF Hutton brokerage firm known for it's colorful TV commercials in the 70's based on the phrase "When EF Hutton Talks, people listen".
David sure knows his E-Types and you do as well. I aspire to both your levels, but have a long way to go. Plus both you and David have documented your work extensively and I use your sites fairly often when undertaking a difficult task on my car. Maybe Erica and I can document her engine removal that is coming up just to get the work process down with photos. David has done this with his car, but took out the picture frame. We plan to leave it in place and lift the front of Erica's car so the engine can be rolled away on a dolly.
ReplyDeleteNice work, Lynn. CJ is getting better every day.